Thursday, May 10, 2012
Friday, April 20, 2012
Depth of Field (DOF)
Alright, so it's been a very long time, but I've finally researched it and I will now explain depth of field.
What it means is the distance between the furthest and nearest object. Your camera can really only focus on one thing at a time and the unsharpness decreases gradually on either side of the object in focus.
Depending on the picture you aiming for, you may want the entire picture to be entirely sharp or only a certain object or area to be focused, making the background and foreground extremely blurry.
Again, this picture is from Wiki, not mine, but it explains visually what I just wrote up there. As you can see, everything before and after the middle butterfly is blurry, while the middle one is sharp.
The photo below shows again what I explained.
This picture is taken at f/32 and the flower isn't the main point of concentration.
What it means is the distance between the furthest and nearest object. Your camera can really only focus on one thing at a time and the unsharpness decreases gradually on either side of the object in focus.
Depending on the picture you aiming for, you may want the entire picture to be entirely sharp or only a certain object or area to be focused, making the background and foreground extremely blurry.
The photo below shows again what I explained.
While this pictture is taken at f/5.6 and the flower is the main attraction.
Thanks for reading, any questions, email or just reply.
Friday, March 9, 2012
Tripod
Okay, so I've got another short story for those of you that might stumble upon this blog.
You're definitely not in the wilderness this time, you're in the city for a while still trying to perfect your photography and hopefully get some sweet shots.
So there you are on the street, watching all the cars pass at night, mezmorized by the lights. You want to capture the trail that they leave behind them with a longer exposure (let's say 30 seconds) but every time you've tried you can't hold the camera long enough without getting a blurry picture, which can be cool, but that aint what you want. Once again you type in the address of this blog hoping that this chick will having something to solve your problems. Once again, she does. :)
You need a tripod to keep your camera still while you have a long exposure to capture the light trails. This tactic can be useful for not only long exposures, but with family pictures and such. Also, I've been experimenting with starry night pictures and taking pictures of the moon with my new zoom lens (70-300mm). I find that it helped me so much because there was no way that I could hold my camera for so long without getting a blurry picture. Here's my best shot so far (I know it still isn't even all that great, but I'm working on getting a better one).
If you find that your pictures are still too blurry, it's probably because you're clicking the shutter button with your finger and moving the camera the slightest amount in the process. SO, to solve that problem, you might want to look into getting Remote Shutter Release Cable or Wireless Remote Shutter Release. They come in either a remote with a cable or wireless remote and can be very useful if you don't want to move your camera while pressing down the shutter button. With this you can hit a button that will open and close you shutter with you moving or touching your camera at all, which is awesome!
I realized that I should probably tell whoever reads this the prices of everything, so I will go back and do that. I've gotten everything for my camera at Henry's so I will list their prices.
For the tripod: I have Henry's HTV85 video tripod which is $130, but I've seen others that go up to $240 or less that are $80, but you'd have to go into a store and get one for your height and for the durability that you want.
For the Remote or Wireless Remote Shutter Release: I've seen anywhere from $90-150, but Kijiji will most definitely have stuff for cheaper.
Hope this helped, au revoire!
You're definitely not in the wilderness this time, you're in the city for a while still trying to perfect your photography and hopefully get some sweet shots.
So there you are on the street, watching all the cars pass at night, mezmorized by the lights. You want to capture the trail that they leave behind them with a longer exposure (let's say 30 seconds) but every time you've tried you can't hold the camera long enough without getting a blurry picture, which can be cool, but that aint what you want. Once again you type in the address of this blog hoping that this chick will having something to solve your problems. Once again, she does. :)
You need a tripod to keep your camera still while you have a long exposure to capture the light trails. This tactic can be useful for not only long exposures, but with family pictures and such. Also, I've been experimenting with starry night pictures and taking pictures of the moon with my new zoom lens (70-300mm). I find that it helped me so much because there was no way that I could hold my camera for so long without getting a blurry picture. Here's my best shot so far (I know it still isn't even all that great, but I'm working on getting a better one).
If you find that your pictures are still too blurry, it's probably because you're clicking the shutter button with your finger and moving the camera the slightest amount in the process. SO, to solve that problem, you might want to look into getting Remote Shutter Release Cable or Wireless Remote Shutter Release. They come in either a remote with a cable or wireless remote and can be very useful if you don't want to move your camera while pressing down the shutter button. With this you can hit a button that will open and close you shutter with you moving or touching your camera at all, which is awesome!
I realized that I should probably tell whoever reads this the prices of everything, so I will go back and do that. I've gotten everything for my camera at Henry's so I will list their prices.
For the tripod: I have Henry's HTV85 video tripod which is $130, but I've seen others that go up to $240 or less that are $80, but you'd have to go into a store and get one for your height and for the durability that you want.
For the Remote or Wireless Remote Shutter Release: I've seen anywhere from $90-150, but Kijiji will most definitely have stuff for cheaper.
Hope this helped, au revoire!
Thursday, January 26, 2012
F-stop-op-op PART 2
Dun, dun, dun!
I'm just showing y'all some pictures I stole from my best friend, Wikipedia, to help better understand aperture in case you didn't get it the first two times I tried explaining it to you. :) The aperture starts at probaly f/32 of f/24 or something, then maybe to f/5.6.
I'm just showing y'all some pictures I stole from my best friend, Wikipedia, to help better understand aperture in case you didn't get it the first two times I tried explaining it to you. :) The aperture starts at probaly f/32 of f/24 or something, then maybe to f/5.6.
As you can, the hole gets bigger as you follow the sequence of photos, which means more light that is being let in, the clearer your photo will be. In the next post I will explain DOF (depth of field) which has much relation to aperture, but I'm tired right now and I don't want to have to look at this blog for at least another week. Goodnight all.
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
F-stop-op-op PART 1
Aight. Let's get down to business.
F-stops. Aperture.
Let's make this simple.
First off, your aperture is measured in factions, but those fractions are also called f-stops. Aperture is measured in f-stops which is measure in fractions. Say that 10 times in your head, ready, GO!
Next, if your camera, for example, is set to f/2, that means 1/2, which also means that the hole that the light travels through is HALF THE SIZE OF THE LENGTH OF YOUR CAMERA LENS. Understand this.
Therefore, if you have f/18, the hole will be extremely small and that the hole is 1/18th the length of your lens. In conclusion, the bigger aperture you have, the sharper your pictures will be (although most soft spots on SLR cameras are in the f/8 - f/11 area), and the smaller aperture the fuzzier life will seem. Here are two pictures to help you understand.
As you can see from my examples, in the first pictures, the smaller hole was compensated by the shutter speed and came out with a fuzzier picture, while the one with a bigger hole and smaller shutter speed came out with a clearer picture.
And that concludes my aperture diagnostic. Stay tuned.
F-stops. Aperture.
Let's make this simple.
First off, your aperture is measured in factions, but those fractions are also called f-stops. Aperture is measured in f-stops which is measure in fractions. Say that 10 times in your head, ready, GO!
Next, if your camera, for example, is set to f/2, that means 1/2, which also means that the hole that the light travels through is HALF THE SIZE OF THE LENGTH OF YOUR CAMERA LENS. Understand this.
Therefore, if you have f/18, the hole will be extremely small and that the hole is 1/18th the length of your lens. In conclusion, the bigger aperture you have, the sharper your pictures will be (although most soft spots on SLR cameras are in the f/8 - f/11 area), and the smaller aperture the fuzzier life will seem. Here are two pictures to help you understand.
1. This photo was taken with an aperture of 10 and a shutter speed of 10 seconds.
2. This photo was taken with an aperture of 4.5 and a shutter speed of 2.5 seconds.
As you can see from my examples, in the first pictures, the smaller hole was compensated by the shutter speed and came out with a fuzzier picture, while the one with a bigger hole and smaller shutter speed came out with a clearer picture.
And that concludes my aperture diagnostic. Stay tuned.
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