F-stop-op-op PART 2

Dun, dun, dun!
I'm just showing y'all some pictures I stole from my best friend, Wikipedia, to help better understand aperture in case you didn't get it the first two times I tried explaining it to you. :) The aperture starts at probaly f/32 of f/24 or something, then maybe to f/5.6.

As you can, the hole gets bigger as you follow the sequence of photos, which means more light that is being let in, the clearer your photo will be. In the next post I will explain DOF (depth of field) which has much relation to aperture, but I'm tired right now and I don't want to have to look at this blog for at least another week. Goodnight all.

F-stop-op-op PART 1

Aight. Let's get down to business.
F-stops. Aperture.
Let's make this simple.

First off, your aperture is measured in factions, but those fractions are also called f-stops. Aperture is measured in f-stops which is measure in fractions. Say that 10 times in your head, ready, GO!

Next, if your camera, for example, is set to f/2, that means 1/2, which also means that the hole that the light travels through is HALF THE SIZE OF THE LENGTH OF YOUR CAMERA LENS. Understand this.
Therefore, if you have f/18, the hole will be extremely small and that the hole is 1/18th the length of your lens. In conclusion, the bigger aperture you have, the sharper your pictures will be (although most soft spots on SLR cameras are in the f/8 - f/11 area), and the smaller aperture the fuzzier life will seem. Here are two pictures to help you understand.

1. This photo was taken with an aperture of 10 and a shutter speed of 10 seconds.

2. This photo was taken with an aperture of 4.5 and a shutter speed of 2.5 seconds.

As you can see from my examples, in the first pictures, the smaller hole was compensated by the shutter speed and came out with a fuzzier picture, while the one with a bigger hole and smaller shutter speed came out with a clearer picture.

And that concludes my aperture diagnostic. Stay tuned.